SF:Thanks so much for taking the time to talk with us at Models of Diversity, Jill. Can I ask you to first tell our community how you found out about MoD and how we came to work together?

JA:I had just returned from my first show in New York during Full Figured Fashion Week when Angel got in touch with me through Facebook. She had read about my work and seen photos of my Fall line, as well as some of my custom gowns. The rest is history.

SF:That just shows how important digital networking is in the industry, doesn't it?

JA:Absolutely! Social media has become a critical element for most new businesses and it has been especially important for mine. It allows me to stay in touch with customers all over the world and it provides an immediate way to respond to requests or just update customers on our work at JAD. We are integrating new social media elements to the business every day and it has been a huge vehicle in helping us educate buyers, customers and the general public about our work and the importance of the fuller figure segment of the market.

SF:You've shown at Full Figured Fashion Weeks in both Los Angeles (the very first one!) and you were one of fifteen design houses chosen for Full Figured Fashion Week New York this past June. That's pretty impressive considering you started your design house in 2009.

JA:Yes. Thank you. I am so appreciative of the timing of launching Jill Alexander Designs. While it was unplanned, JAD was launched around the same timeframe as when Gwen DeVoe, and DeVoe Signature Events, launched their Full Figured Fashion Week shows. Gwen has done so much to promote my brand and to educate people on the importance, and need, for designers who create for fuller figures.

The idea for my own line had been in the back of my mind for years. I was constantly being asked to create custom pieces for clients or help them shop for their most flattering looks. In 2009, I was asked to show some of my designs at the annual FashionART Runway Show in Santa Cruz, CA and that is when the company was born.

SF:Jill Alexander Designs has established a reputation for fit, versatility and attention to detail. As an expert in fabric and tailoring, what do you think is missing in many garments made for plus-sized women?

JA: I find that several things are missing from garments created for plus-size women - the knowledge of how to tailor to a woman with curves, the availability of well-made, classic pieces and the use of vibrant color and textures in designs.

To dress a full figured woman, you have to do it right and you have to incorporate many techniques to give someone a proper fit. Women who need larger sizes shouldn't have to pay more for their clothes. Traditionally, to save a plus size woman money, corners get cut, there is the use of cheaper fabrics and designs with less thought and consequently, often times these pieces don't hold up for more than one season.

We try to incorporate natural fibers, as often as possible, but no matter what the fabric, the quality of the fabric must meet our high standards. An expensive fabric will stand the test of time and provide the feel and comfort that we want to provide. These are the cornerstones of our collection.

The scale of pattern needs to be different with larger sizes. It just does not work to put a tiny print on a plus-size woman so my designs incorporate that scale appropriately.

SF:You were honored at the Beach Museum of Art's "Little Black Dress on the Red Carpet" design contest in 2009. Now of course the LBD is one of the most vital components of any woman's wardrobe. But larger women are often told they need to hide behind dark colours; how does that sit with you?

JA:It doesn't sit with me well at all. I meet women every day, plus size or not, that have been taught to stay away from vibrant colors or patterns. There is a huge portion of the population that have been brainwashed into thinking that the only flattering colors are black or dark gray and that a garment should cover up one's shape.

Women also have a tendency to punish themselves by not purchasing new clothing until they "lose 10 lbs". I want women to have options that make them look great the minute they put my designs on. When you look great and feel great you have the ability to be your best self.

I have recently created a new Little Black Dress that was designed with plus-size model Emme in mind. It's short, above the knee, sleeveless, fitted and covered in sequins.

Don't get me wrong, a great little black dress is a key element in any woman's wardrobe, I just insist that it follow JAD's goals of being well made, have a perfect fit and draw attention to the woman wearing it.

SF:You've had a varied career in the fashion industry, working as a stylist, visual merchandiser, and stage costume designer. You've even done maternity wear for A Pea in the Pod. How has this helped you consider the fashion needs of diverse customers?

JA:I have been a curvy woman all my life. I understand, first-hand, the challenges curvy women face in finding high quality clothes that not only fit well but also are constructed in a manner that will make them classics in a wardrobe for a lifetime.

I started creating clothing for myself decades ago and my work in the fashion industry, stage, and as a stylist have just further honed those skills. I understand a woman's figure. I understand how that figure can change and I understand fabrics and textures and how to create patterns that enhance a curvy figure.

My experience in costume design also allowed me to experiment with a variety of unique fabrics and patterns as well as a variety of sizes. It has given me both inspiration and the ability to experiment with making a statement.

I do understand the challenges curvy women face in finding high quality clothes that fit well and are constructed in a manner that will make them classics in a wardrobe for a lifetime.

SF:What are the challenges of designing and manufacturing clothes for women over a US-size 12? Many design houses just size up their standard pattern rather than re-cut it for different figures, sizes and proportions.

JA:To create a garment for a fuller figure, and do it right, you have to be willing to use a lot of fabric because you will cut patterns to allow for a garment to fit, yet move. Patterns have to be made differently and often times it comes down to just staying way from creating a pattern with straight lines. Let me give you an example. To dress a curvy customer in sequins, you have to have the know-how to tailor for curves. Sequins are plastic and when they are on a stretchy fabric, they don't always lay flat. Sequins often are sewn in a straight line, so to have them lay flat and evenly on a curvy body, I have to cut the fabric in various lines and add small areas of hand-sewn sequins to finish it off. To bend it over a curvy body is tricky. The same strategy has to be applied to bold prints and other fabrics with textures.

SF: I started my plus-modelling career in America, but I have to say it's gone much better here in the UK. Do you have a sense of how the plus industry varies in different countries?

JA: I have had the same experience. For instance, in Australia women are buying my designs like crazy. Our line has picked up quickly in several other sectors of the globe, and it has been a bit slower to happen here in the US.

I really feel the United States follows what happens in Europe and I hope you will be able to finally break the glass ceiling when it comes to fashion for the fuller figure. Designers here watch the trends that come out of the UK and Europe and I think woman there have been given the chance to express their beauty no matter what size they are.

Women in Europe have a style, they dress beautifully, and they are proud to look impeccable.

SF:What advice would you give to a prospective plus model who wants to get into the business?

JA:They need to sign with an agency that has a great reputation for placing fuller figured models in quality assignments. They need to seek out a firm that has their best interests and goals in mind and an agency that has the pulse of what is happening in the industry. They need to stay ahead of the curve and help educate the industry. Another important piece of advice is to constantly update your comp card. Make sure your measurements are true and you have your most recent photos. There is nothing worse for a designer than showing up to a big show, trying an outfit on a model that was tailored to their measurements, and the outfit doesn't fit because the measurements haven't been updated. They should also call my office. I am always looking for great models.

SF:What is your biggest dream for your business? And, for the plus industry in general?

JA: I am really living my dream right now. My biggest dream would be having my own stores in the US and abroad. I already know exactly what they would look like and the level of customer service I would insist on.

My dream is to continue to stay true to my original goals. My goal is and will continue to be to create a collection of separates, made mostly of natural fabrics, that can be worn from day to evening. I want to continue to offer contemporary, and fashion forward pieces without being a fad. I want my line to continue to work for many different body shapes and to be comfortable and sophisticated.

Everything we design at JAD is classic with contemporary fabrics. Our customer is the woman who can do it all, is a mother, wife, a professional, and an athlete, a woman who is educated and savvy. Our customer is a woman who wants to be noticed but in what I consider a more classic European way. The woman who wears JAD has her own style.

I suppose that also sums up what my hopes are for the plus-size industry as well, that designers are simply designers that create for women of all shapes and sizes and that any size woman can have beautiful, well made clothes that fit perfectly.

SF:Thank you so much for your time Jill! We're so excited you're launching your new line at our show and look forward to changing the industry together.

JA:Thank you! I am honored to be attending this important fashion event. I have been following the work you have been doing at Models of Diversity and I am proud that you have been able to break new ground. I applaud your determination in making this show a reality and the countless amount of time, and effort, it has taken to make it happen. I am just so happy to be a part of it all.

You can learn more about Jill Alexander Designs at...
 
www.jillalexanderdesigns.com/