So, what is it about British fashion industry that 'black' is rarely used? So like B.o.B let's just use a little imagination: Boateng's last collection for Givenchy was just incredibly fantastic. Bringing his electric sense of style, cut and colour, his collection was bold and beautiful with a touch of Savile Row class. Then you have the young and brilliantly talented Romero Bryan, a designer from a young age who's designed for celebrities such as, Beyoncé, Kate Moss and Cameron Diaz. He's achieved what most designers dream of. With a unique style that is bold, sexy and strong, Bryan could have fit beautifully into Christopher Kane's position at Versus.
With his chic, urban style, his creative eye and cutting-edge skills, plus his appearance on BET's Rip the Runway, Kevin Douglas could have slotted in perfectly as the new Designer at Alexandra McQueen. His perfect combination of quirkiness and bold statement pieces would have made the late McQueen proud.
But the category winners at this year's British Fashion Awards worryingly spells the truth about the lack of black designers on the runways. Speaking of her Special Recognition Award win, supermodel and super wild woman Naomi Campbell's carefully chosen words of, '...Women of colour are now far better represented....' is a statement I'm not so quick to agree with. Had she not been blinded her bluntly cut fringe she'd have noticed that she was the only black winner. Where were the likes of Chanel Iman while the Model of the Year Award went to Lara 'my diamond is a big fat' Stone? Where were the faces of new black designers among the nominations for the BFC's Emerging Talent award? And was VV Brown too busy making another Marks and Sparks advert why she missed out on the British Style award to super skinny latte Alexa Chung?
So, I ask again, is black so last season, or just not in season? My way of getting the British Fashion Council and co to stop, look and listen?....strap then to judge-like chairs and perform a Fashion Factor audition with a sign saying 'Only Blacks Allowed.'
But in the midst of all this I noticed a super trooper in the form of Bruce Oldfield, the bridal and eveningwear designer who's been hotly tipped as Kate Middleton's wedding dress designer. Having designed for triple A-listers such as Jerry Hall, Barbra Streisand, Queen Rania of Jordan and the late Diana, Princess of Wales, the Barnardo's raised designer is well respected. Born to an Irish seamstress mother and a Jamaican father who was a boxer, his designs are classic and graciously beautiful, with a punch of flirtatiousness. But I can just see the bold headlines now, 'Black fashion designer to design future Queen's wedding dress.'
What the UK needs are representatives who are able to sass out hot and talented black designers. Like Kanya King's MOBOS, we're definitely in need of a DOBO (designers of black origin). The UK needs the likes of Andre Leon Talley, American Vogue's Editor at Large and America's Next Top Model judge, famous for pioneering designers in the US such as Tracey Reese.
So, if I were a celebrity and Coty were say, a chocolatier, I'd be churning out a mix of Leon Talley's in choco truffles, a Wintour in caramel choc chip and a Blow in mocha, choca sundaes.
My only criticism for black designers already succeeding in the game? use MORE black models!
Beatrice A Ayim |